Recap: Maui and Molokai (w/pics!)

We crossed the Alenuihaha Channel from the Big Island to Maui on 10 June. As suggested by our cruising guide, we did a pre-dawn departure from Nishumura Bay, and had crossed the channel by around noon. The trade winds accelerate through the channels between the islands, so we were on a screaming fast reach (6-7 kts) in a gusty 25 kts of wind with waves building to 10 ft as we closed on Maui. After crossing, we had planned to anchor in La Perouse Bay; however, after rounding Cape Hanamanioa, we found that the winds were still strong and the rocky shoreline did not look inviting, so we carried on towards Lahaina. Passing Oneloa Beach (Big Beach), we were enticed by the long stretch of sand and calm conditions, and put down our anchor. We swam to shore and walked the beach, very reminiscent of our Mexico days.

Maui from the Alenuihaha Channel

Swimming to shore at Oneloa Big Beach

Sunset over Maui with Molokini on the left

On 11 June we departed from Oneloa, and stopped by Molokini on our way to Lahaina. Molokini is a small crescent shaped islet that is the rim of an extinct volcanic crater. Because the cove inside the crescent is so protected, it is a fantastic snorkeling site. However, finding and securing to a submerged mooring around the edge of the crater is no easy task. We were fortunate to watch a tour boat leaving to know the approximate location of one of the mooring balls, and Matt was able to dive down to pick up the pennant line of the buoy that was submerged about 10 ft. It was totally worth the effort because the water clarity was unbelievable, the coral was beautiful, and there were a huge number of fish species that we hadn't seen before.

After leaving Molokini, we made the short hop over to Lahaina, which is a great town with adorable water front buildings and lush volcanic mountains as a backdrop. We were able to tie up to a Lahaina Yacht Club mooring ball (no reciprocal yacht club membership required), and they generously gave us a temporary membership to be able to shower and eat at the yacht club. The Lahaina Roadstead was indeed as rolly as everyone says, and it was a half-hour row in the dinghy from the boat into the harbour.

We stayed in Lahaina for 5 nights (11-16 June) and were fortunate to catch up with Crazy Love there to swap stories about our passages across from Mexico. We also hiked the beautiful 'Iao Valley, snorkeled with a sea turtle at the Black Rock at Ka'anapali, and caught the Kamehameha Day parade. Lahaina was a great stop, certainly not to be missed!

Lunch at the Lahaina Yacht Club with Crazy Love

141 year old banyan tree

Our first shave ice (so not just a snow cone!)

Kepaniwai Heritage Gardens

'Iao Needle (1200 ft)

Picking fresh wild raspberries

Ridge line hike

Wild raspberries on French toast

Kamehameha parade

Kamehameha parade

AEOLI lies to her mooring with Lana'i behind

Snorkeling at Ka'anapali

After departing from Lahaina, we headed to Honolua Bay, where we anchored for one night. The trip upwind in the Pailolo Channel had bigger wind and waves than we expected being close to the coast, but the snorkeling at Honolua Bay was well worth it. We swam with a family of sea turtles, and there was so much live coral and so many different fish species that we only pried ourselves out of the water when our digits were numb from being cold. Crazy Love then joined us for a BBQ, and we enjoyed another great evening.

Crazy Love

We left Honolua Bay on the morning of 17 June, and had a screaming fast crossing of the Pailolo Channel, close reaching in more big wind and big waves. After we arrived on the north side of Molokai, we changed to a slow downwind sail so that we could enjoy the beautiful scenery. The north shore of Molokai has the tallest sea cliffs in the world, and the spectacular coast line can really only be seen by private vessel or helicopter tour (of which we saw several). We anchored for lunch at Wailau Valley, and afterwards continued our slow downwind sail close to the coast. Finally, we met up with the Crazy Love at anchor at Okala Island, probably the most scenic anchorage we have ever been to. We stayed two nights at Okala Island, enjoying the dramatic scenery and the great company. The anchorage was reasonably protected from the trades, however localized strong north winds were gusting, making for a somewhat uncomfortable lee shore situation.

 

We continued on around to the west side of Molokai on 19 June, and anchored at 'Ilio Point, in Kawakiu Nui Bay. We had a lot of trouble setting our anchor in a sand patch, though certainly not for lack of trying. We had a quick snorkel to shore, and enjoyed our last night at anchor before heading to the big city of Honolulu!

Maui And Molokai Album

Recap: The Big Island (w/pics!)

We arrived in Radio Bay on the morning of 12 May, and checked in with customs and the harbor master shortly thereafter. The experience with customs was unusually pleasant. Since they do not have the bins to discard produce from a different country, we were advised that we were allowed to keep our produce aboard the boat, but needed to properly dispose of the peels, seeds, etc by either boiling them before throwing them out or simply throwing them out next time we are at sea. If I had known this before arriving at Radio Bay, I would have thrown overboard the remnants of our produce before landfall to keep the fruit flies out of the boat. Paying for moorage at the harbor master was more of a challenge, since they only accept money orders. We found out later that Radio Bay is one of the few anchorages not managed by the DLNR (Department of Land and Natural Resources), and all other harbors and anchorages managed by the DLNR have no problem accepting other forms of payment. Also, we found out that transients are allowed to anchor in Reeds Bay, provided they check in with the DLNR and pay the low fee (~$1.50/day for a 32 ft boat).

We stayed 4 nights in Radio Bay to recover from the passage and explore Hilo. Hilo has a great vibe, though it’s a little rough around the edges. The Asian restaurants are authentic and cheap. We tried Naung Mai, Pho Viet, and Ocean Sushi and all three were really good, though it’s been a long time since we’ve had access to Asian food! The farmer’s market has an amazing selection of beautiful produce, getting us hooked on sweet lychees and Japanese eggplant. The Lyman Museum gives a pretty interesting overview of Hawaiian history from the time when the missionaries arrived, and explains the cultural diversity of the islands.

Wait...this isn't Mexico!

Our first meal off the boat in 24 days w/ Moments, whom we had met in Mexico and had also just made the big passage

Asian food euphoria!

Family home at the Lyman Museum

Double-hulled canoes at Radio Bay

Kilauea Crater at Volcanoes National Park

Having secured moorage at the Honokohau Harbour, we departed from Radio Bay on the afternoon of 16 May and downwind sailed and motored 110 nm around the north point of the Big Island to the Kailua-Kona area. The overnighter was rough for me (Rachel), as apparently I can lose my ocean passage sea legs after 4 days of being in a calm anchorage. We were able to comfortably get around the north side of the island because there was a disruption in the trade winds, and the Alenuihaha Channel was relatively calm. We arrived in Honokohau around 3PM on 17 May and worked AEOLI into her first Tahitian-style mooring.

AEOLI on a mooring ball with the resident sea turtle

We arrived in Kailua-Kona to a much anticipated vacation with our close friends Neel, Julie, and Simon. We explored the Big Island’s beautiful sights and enjoyed the warm hospitality of the Datta family.
After our friends headed back to Seattle on 25 May, we stayed on land a few more days. We had SO enjoyed the comforts of a house (hot and running water, private bathroom, internet, big kitchen, big bed) and were not quite ready to return to the boat life. We had connected with John and Christy at the beach BBQ with Neel’s family, and they invited us over for a lovely evening at their home.

NOW we are on vacation in Hawaii!!

Hawi

Pololu Valley Lookout

Hapuna Beach

Hiking the Kilauea Iki trail at Volcanoes National Park

Thurston Lava Tube at Volcanoes National Park

Akaka Falls (420 ft)

Paddle-boarding at Kamakahonu Beach

Kamakahonu Beach

Kamakahonu Beach

Kamakahonu Beach

Royal Kona Resort Luau

Digging up the kalua pig

Aloha with the dancers

Green Sand Beach

The Loco Moco!!

Waipi'o Valley

Hi'ilawe Falls (1200 ft)

Waipi'o Valley

Waipi'o Valley view from the Zigzag Trail switchback

Kanaka Kava

Tane giving us a tour of his organic farm

Family BBQ at City of Refuge (Pu'uhonua O Honaunau) with the Dattas

While checking on the boat, we discovered some oily bilge water, which unfortunately lead us to a small leak in our fuel tank. We then had to wait to see if we could adequately extend our moorage to dig into the issue. On 30 May, the harbor master’s office helped us out by finding a way to extend our temporary permit for another 10 days. We then set to work draining, disconnecting, and removing the tank before delivering it to a welder. He replaced the stainless steel bottom plate of the tank and brought it back to us the very same day. The reinstallation went smoothly, and we had the repair completed on 2 June. Since the tank fix didn’t take as long as we thought it would, it gave us more time to explore the natural beauty of the Big Island.

Now how am I going to get this fuel tank out...?

Tank all fixed up and ready to go back in

Sunset from Kailua-Kona waterfront

Pololu Valley Trail

Ridgeline above Honokane Nui valley

Snorkeling and picnic lunch at Ho'okena Beach with the Oggs

Beautiful produce from the Hilo farmer's market

Finally on 9 June, we departed the Honokohau Harbour and headed north to Nishimura Bay. The weather was completely calm as we motored north up the coast, until about 2 miles south of Nishimura Bay when the wind and waves picked up suddenly and we could start to feel the effect of the strong trade winds. Despite how it seemed on approach, Nishimura Bay turned out to be a reasonable anchorage. We said farewell to the Big Island with a pre-dawn departure from Nishimura Bay on 10 June, to head out across the notoriously windy Alenuihaha Channel.

Honokohau Harbor

Honokohau Harbor

Nishimura Bay

Big Island Album